What Are Ekiben? Why Japan's Station Bento Box is Travel's Best-Kept Secret

Gliding through Japan at 200 mph aboard the Shinkansen doesn't call for just any old sandwich and bag of chips. Do as the Japanese do and unwrap what might be the most thoughtfully crafted meal you've ever encountered on public transport – the ekiben, or station bento, is Japan's answer to "travel dining" that puts every other country's train food to shame.

You may think that bento boxes are simple, since they're considered an easy, quick lunch option in Japan. But calling ekiben "simple" is like calling Mount Fuji "a hill" - technically accurate, but missing point. Read on to learn what makes ekiben, Japan’s best-kept travel secret.

What Are Ekiben? More than a Bento Box

Ekiben is a portmanteau combining the words eki (station) and bento (lunch box).

So, what makes ekiben different from other boxed lunches? They tend to be fancier than the usual bento you can buy in a konbini (convenience store).

While you can buy a standard bento box at a convenience store for around 500 yen, Japanese station bento boxes are in another category. Most cost between 1,000 to 1,500 yen (roughly $7-11 USD), with premium versions using luxurious ingredients like certain types of tuna sashimi or wagyu beef going for over 3,000 yen.

Each ekiben tells the story of its region, showcasing local ingredients and specialties. They're designed to be both practical for travel and representative of the area you're visiting or passing through.

The History of Ekiben

In Japan, eating on public transport is usually frowned upon - so how did ekiben come to be?

For the answer, we must go back to the beginning of railroad travel in Japan, at the end of the 19th century. Decades before the high-speed Shinkansen, traveling across Japan by train took multiple hours to days, and even the most polite members of society had to admit that they needed to eat during these long journeys.

In 1885, an inn outside Utsunomiya station started selling a set of sesame-covered onigiri rice balls with pickled daikon radish to travelers. This idea quickly caught on, and by 1888, more elaborate ekiben with rice and different side dishes started to be sold at Himeji station. Ekiben were further popularized by the military, as they often had to travel by train.

Ekiben's real growth in popularity came after World War II. Economic prosperity and the launch of the bullet train in the 1960s meant more people traveled for leisure. Choosing an ekiben for your train ride became a part of the travel experience itself, rather than a necessity.

Today, Japan even holds annual ekiben fairs (or ekiben tournaments) where restaurants from all over the country sell their ekiben. The biggest one, in Tokyo's Keio Shinjuku Department Store, sells over 300 types of ekiben!

Where to Buy Ekiben in Tokyo

Tokyo Station is the best place to experience ekiben culture. Most shops are located behind the ticket gates, but you can buy a platform ticket for 150 yen if you're not taking a train.

Ekibenya Matsuri is the most well-known ekiben shop at Tokyo Station. It's popular with both tourists and locals, so expect crowds, especially during peak hours. The selection can be overwhelming, so arriving early gives you more time to browse and better availability.

The front entrance of Ekibenya Matsuri in Tokyo Station is always bustling with travelers.

Pro-tip: If it's your first trip to Tokyo, we recommend arriving at Tokyo station one to two hours early so that you can not only find your train platform but pick out your ekiben!

Types of Ekiben: Options for Every Taste Palette

Traditional Ekiben

The makunouchi bento is the name for the classic bento box. It features rice, a piece of grilled fish, and pickled vegetables. The makunouchi bento is a good introduction to ekiben and represents the traditional balanced Japanese meal.

Sushi Ekiben

Sushi-style ekiben feature fresh fish and rice, often including tamagoyaki (rolled omelet). I heartily recommend the chirashizushi bento from Sakana Bacca sold in the Kinokuniya shop inside Tokyo Station.

It's just as delicious as it looks, it's the first ekiben I bought in Japan and I loved every single bite of it. Everything was so fresh and the scallops on top were perfectly tender with a delicate taste.

Regional Specialties

This is where ekiben get interesting. Each region creates versions featuring local ingredients. Wherever you are traveling in Japan, be sure to pick up an ekiben for your return trip. Tokyo station offers regional bento from all over the country. Grab a Yamagata ekiben with thinly sliced cuts of regional beef, or a Hakodate ekiben filled with ultra fresh seafood like king crab and squid.

I once bought an ekiben in Nara that came in a box decorated with the city's famous deer and contained kakinoha zushi (pressed sushi wrapped in persimmon leaves) – a local specialty that doubled as a souvenir.

Character Bento (Kyaraben)

A popular souvenir ekiben is the kyaraben (character bento) with boxes shaped like cartoon characters or even trains! They are meant for children, so the portions are small and the food quite basic, like fried chicken and tamagoyaki.

Unless you are planning on taking a morning train, the chances of getting one at Ekibenya in Tokyo Station are quite low. In my case, they were already sold out at 2PM.

Self-Heating Ekiben

What if you don't want to eat room temperature food? No need for a microwave, you can buy a self-heating bento! They are in their own separate section and are recognizable by the little string taped on top that you pull to activate the self-heating function.

How Self-Heating Ekiben Work: Wagyu Yakiniku Bento Review

I had already tried sushi ekiben and regional ekiben, I couldn't find a kyaraben, so I decided to try a self-heating wagyu yakiniku ekiben. It was my first time buying a self-heating dish so I was very curious about it.

On top of that, the grilled wagyu beef looked appetizing and the packaging was intriguing. I was worried that I would make a mistake and reheat it the wrong way, but the cashier provided me with instructions in English and Japanese!

The process is straightforward: place the box on a heat-safe surface, pull the string completely out, and wait about five minutes while steam escapes from a small hole. The result is properly warmed food without needing a microwave.

So how did it taste? The steam gave just enough warmth that dish was perfectly cooked through. The beef was tender, easy to eat, and well-seasoned. The rice was fluffy and the tamagoyaki on the side was pillowy soft. At 1,980 yen, it's a bit on the pricier side, but I really enjoyed it.

Frequently Asked Questions About Ekiben

Do I need to heat up my ekiben before eating?

No, you do not need to heat up your ekiben. Most station bento boxes are designed to be eaten at room temperature, with the exception of self-heating ekiben. The flavors and textures are carefully balanced to taste delicious without heating.

Is it okay to eat ekiben on the train?

Yes, eating ekiben on long distance trains is completely normal and expected. This is one of the few situations in Japan where eating on public transport is socially acceptable.

Are there vegetarian ekiben options?

Unfortunately, one downside of ekiben is that there are very rarely vegetarian or vegan options. Because of this, you will have to find something in a konbini or vegetarian restaurant to take with you before going to the train station. Check out our tips for eating vegan in Tokyo, here.

Final Thoughts

When I first came to Japan and took the bullet train to visit different cities, eating delicious ekiben was always a highlight of my trip. It was my chance to eat traditional Japanese cuisine, including lesser-known regional specialties.

Now, ekiben has become one more thing I look forward to when I travel in Japan. I highly recommend that you try it too.